Paris fashion week

One week in Paris: a roller coaster of anticipation, debate, speculation, & the debut of Demmãng cầu Gvasalia at Balenciaga. What will we take from this season of fashion in a time of unprecedented disruption? That despite everything, this industry is an ever-broadening church that applauds its svào voices, creativity, & the emotional thrill of welcoming the new. The measure of that? How quickly the hullabaloo over see-now-buy-now fashion & the absence of creative directors at Dior và Lanvin abated in the face of so many more interesting things lớn talk about. The week began with a surge of excitement led by young Paris-based designers not witnessed for so many years that you’d almost have sầu to lớn go baông chồng lớn the early days of Jean Paul Gaultier to lớn think of a parallel. Only now, there are more than in the ’80s: Koché, Jacquemus,Anthony Vaccarello, Julien Dossemãng cầu at Paco Rabanne, and Sébastien Meyer và Arnaud Vaillant at Courrèges are all now must-sees, with the collective sầu that is Vetements leading the movement of outsiders to lớn the center of attention. As Gvasalia brought his vision lớn Balenciaga with an accomplishment that startled và thrilled, it felt like confirmation: Something new is afoot in Paris, và it’s good.

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And it turned out lớn be far from just a matter of the very new designers being good for the very young. A panoramic set of viewpoints for differing tastes & ages came from Dries Van Noten, Riccarvì chưng Tisci at Givenchy, Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino, & John Galliano at Maison Margiela. When Nicolas Ghesquière finished off the week in dazzlingly multifaceted size at Louis Vuitton, the fashion crowd boarded their planes và trains knowing that, despite the trauma this city has suffered, & whatever questions remain unanswered, Paris is as svào a magnet as ever. Maybe even stronger.


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1. LoeweWith his newly sophisticated fit-and-flare look, Jonathan Anderson hit a point of clarity: a waist-emphasizing silhouette, a wealth of gold chokers, bracelets and ceramic pendants, desirable new bags, và the comeback of the classic Amazomãng cầu.


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2. VetementsMuch has been written about the sudden pervasive sầu influence of the overkích thước at Vetements. Now Demna Gvasalia và co. are phối to lớn exaggerate long legs with thigh-high boots and socks, throwing more fuel on the fire of an unstoppable fashion cult.

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3. Maison MargielaA master class in collage layered militaria on lingerie, Western plaids on ’40s skirts & dresses, lamé on animal print that was buckled together with wide belts. Sinuous iridescent dresses with capes placed the poetic John Galliano bias-cut baông xã into focus.


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4. BalenciagaThis seamlessly smooth takeover of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s tenets of tailoring, the collection Demmãng cầu Gvasalia proposed a modernized hunched-forward, padded-hip silhouette & electrified the combination of puffer jackets & stirrup pants with an extreme—but wearable—elegance.


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5. GivenchyHe may have shown in a wooden maze và referenced ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs, but there was nothing obscure about Riccarbởi vì Tisci’s personal résumé of all his strengths in military tailoring, print, và sexy-chic attitude.

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6. ValentinoA spellbinding sequence of ballerina-influenced evening dresses drew gasps at the over of a collection that subtly encompassed graceful flowing jersey dresses, incredible silk velvets, and a tough blachồng leather coat, one of the season’s most-memorable maxis.


7. Louis VuittonThat the tour de force of kiến thiết ingenuity from Nicolas Ghesquière defied a sound-bite definition made the contents only more compelling. Who else could khuyến mãi so convincingly with motocross leathers; cut classic silk scarves onto fit-and-flare dresses; invigorate sweaters & T-shirts with a collage of sporty references; và produce a whole finale of complex, micro-sequined, paneled multimedia dresses light-years beyond the cliché of red carpet dressing?


Chuyên mục: Giải trí